Somehow a scalloped edge instantly makes a quilt feel like an heirloom. It's such a sweet touch.
Some quilts have scalloped edges built right into the pattern, like my Marguerite Quilt or the Double Wedding Ring quilt I recently finished. On other quilts, you can choose to add scallops yourself, like my friend Kaycee from Sew and Sew Quilting Co. did HERE.
Binding a scalloped edge quilt can feel intimidating, but I promise it's not nearly as difficult as it looks. Let's walk through it step by step!
Step 1: Trim the Scallops
Wait until after your quilt is fully quilted before trimming the scallops.
I prefer using scissors rather than a rotary cutter because they allow for much more precision, especially in the valleys between scallops. Carefully trim the backing and batting so they're even with the quilt top.
Step 2: Make Bias Binding
For a scalloped edge, you'll need bias binding. If you're not sure how to make it, check out my tutorial HERE.
When hand binding a scalloped quilt, I like to cut my binding strips 2¼" wide.
You really do need bias binding for this technique. Straight-grain binding won't ease smoothly around the curves and will make the process much more frustrating. Trust me on this one!
If making bias binding isn't your favorite task, my friend Karen from Bessie Pearl Binding sells beautiful pre-made bias binding made from high-quality quilting cotton.
Step 3: Attach the Binding to the Front
Start at the top of a scallop and leave a tail for joining your binding later.
Line up the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt. As you sew, keep a slight tension on the binding so it hugs the curves nicely when folded to the back. You don't want to stretch it, just gently guide it along the curve.
Step 4: Navigate the Valleys
When you reach a valley, use a stiletto or another pointed tool to identify the lowest point of the curve.
Stop sewing when your needle reaches that point. Then use your stiletto to mark a second point ¼" past the valley along your stitching line. This is where you'll pivot to begin sewing up the next scallop.
Sew until you reach that ¼" pivot point, then stop with your needle down and raise the presser foot.
Using a pair of very sharp scissors, make a tiny snip into the binding right next to your needle. The snip should extend almost to the stitching line, but not through it.
This small cut allows the binding to pivot smoothly around the valley and align with the next scallop.
Pivot the quilt so the binding is lined up with the next curve. Lower the presser foot and use your stiletto to gently move any excess fabric away from the needle before continuing to sew.
Go slowly here. If any fabric gets folded or bunched under the needle, you'll end up with puckers in the finished binding. After a few stitches, everything should smooth out beautifully.
The result is a crisp, clean point like this:
Step 5: Continue Around the Quilt
Repeat this process at each valley as you work your way around the quilt.
Once you've made it all the way around, join the ends of the binding using your preferred method.
Step 6: Finish the Binding
Fold the binding to the back of the quilt and press.
Then use a blind stitch to hand sew the folded edge in place. The bias binding will naturally ease around the curves, giving you a smooth, professional-looking finish.
And that's it! Scalloped binding may look complicated, but once you've sewn a few valleys, you'll find it's just a matter of slowing down and taking your time. The finished result is absolutely worth the extra effort.
Want to learn more about how I made this Double Wedding Ring Quilt? Check out THIS BLOG POST
The beautiful longarm quilting was done by Jaree Gaskin-Housley of Girl Gone Quilting
We chose the pantograph Bespoke (extended width) by Jess Zeigler of Longarm League
Want to watch a video of the process? I have Instagram reels showing each step!
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4